Are You A Wine Glass ‘Stem Snob’? We Asked Three Top Restaurateurs Whether Thinner Is Actually Better, And What They Look For In A Glass

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Three wine professionals interviewed by Livingetc said a thin stem is not a universal requirement for a good wine glass. They pointed instead to the glass’s balance, bowl, rim and fit with the restaurant or home setting, while acknowledging that stem choice is partly personal preference.

Three London restaurant wine professionals told Livingetc that a thin stem is not a requirement for a good wine glass, directing attention instead to its balance, bowl and rim, as well as the setting in which it will be used. Their comments offer practical guidance for diners and hosts amid renewed attention to whether delicate stemware is better than sturdier designs.

Michael Mackenzie, who leads the wine program at Poon’s at Somerset House, said the overall feel and balance of a glass matter more than stem thickness alone. He pointed to stem length and how the stem feels in the hand, along with a bowl that helps the drinker focus on the wine without becoming a distraction. After testing different options, he said the restaurant chose the Schott Zwiesel Vina Burgundy Glass.

At Akub, sommelier Anna Patrowicz said she personally prefers thin-stemmed glassware, but argued that the choice should suit a restaurant’s atmosphere and furniture. Akub selected glasses that were somewhat less delicate and better suited to its tables. Patrowicz said she pays close attention to the rim, preferring one that is as thin as possible, and to a bowl that can hold a 125-milliliter pour while leaving room to swirl the wine. She named the Zalto Universal Wine Glass as a dependable choice.

Abe Drewery, co-founder and wine expert at Teal by Sally Abé, said a good glass should allow aromas to express themselves and be enjoyable to use. He recommended the Richard Brendon x Jancis Robinson Universal Glass for white, red and sparkling wines. The three interviewees’ preferences differ, but their comments share a focus on how a glass performs and fits its setting, rather than a rule that a thinner stem is always superior.

Choosing Glasses Beyond Stem Thickness

The advice matters because a glass is both a serving item and part of how people experience wine. Patrowicz emphasized the rim and bowl, while Mackenzie stressed balance and comfort in the hand. These are practical criteria shoppers can use instead of treating stem thickness as a test of taste or expertise.

The restaurateurs also connect glassware to the setting. A fragile-looking glass may suit a formal meal, while a sturdier design may be more appropriate for busy service or a table where stability matters. Their comments do not establish that one style improves every wine; they describe the considerations behind choices at three particular restaurants.

Three Restaurants, Different Priorities

The Livingetc report sought views from professionals working with wine at Poon’s at Somerset House, Akub and Teal by Sally Abé, all in London. Mackenzie oversees a wine list that the report describes as focused on cool-climate wines and family-owned producers. Patrowicz is Akub’s head of drinks, and Drewery helps curate Teal’s wine list.

The report frames the discussion around a familiar divide: thin-stemmed glasses are often associated with formal dining, while chunkier silhouettes can feel more robust or contemporary. The interviewees did not present a shared technical standard for stem thickness. Instead, they described individual preferences and restaurant-specific decisions, with the bowl’s shape and capacity recurring as points to pay attention to.

“What is key is the overall feel and balance of the wine glass, including the stem length and the tactile impression of the stem on your fingers.”

— Michael Mackenzie, wine lead at Poon’s at Somerset House

No Universal Glass Standard

The interviews do not compare glasses through controlled tasting tests or establish that one stem style changes a wine’s flavor. The source reports the restaurateurs’ preferences and selection criteria, but does not provide independent testing, detailed product specifications or a single agreed-upon definition of the best glass.

It is also unclear how the recommended glasses perform across different budgets, wine styles and everyday home use. The source presents the named products as the professionals’ choices, not as a ranking based on a common evaluation.

Match the Glass to the Occasion

The report offers no announced follow-up study or upcoming milestone. For readers choosing glassware, its practical takeaway is to consider the bowl, rim, balance and setting, then decide whether a delicate or sturdier stem feels right for the occasion. The interviewees’ recommendations can serve as starting points, but the source leaves the final choice to individual taste and use.

Key Questions

Do the restaurateurs say thin-stemmed wine glasses are always better?

No. The three interviewees said stem thickness is not a universal measure of quality, although Patrowicz and Drewery said they personally favor thinner stems.

What features should shoppers look for in a wine glass?

The restaurateurs cited balance, comfort, rim thickness and bowl shape. Patrowicz also said the bowl should allow room to swirl the wine while accommodating a 125-milliliter pour.

Does the report prove that glass shape changes how wine tastes?

No controlled test is described. The report relays the professionals’ views on how shape can support the experience of smelling and tasting wine, but it does not establish a measured effect.

Which wine glasses did the interviewees recommend?

Mackenzie named the Schott Zwiesel Vina Burgundy Glass; Patrowicz cited the Zalto Universal Wine Glass; and Drewery recommended the Richard Brendon x Jancis Robinson Universal Glass.

Source: rss